KOSHO’s Sukajan Jacket - The art of Japanese Embroidery
The core of the KOSHO embroidery is the creation of the design from the inspirational, Japanese historical patterns, and apply them onto the dedicated mold. Here we introduce the "mold" as the foundation of embroidery.
These molds were cut out according to the design with a crest paper (rice gob) that was impregnated with persimmon juice (liquid for waterproofing / preservation, retrieved from astringent fruit) in Japanese paper. The craftsman place the mold on the cut fabric and paint with a brush mixed with zinc white (zinc white = powder produced by combustion of zinc, which is hard to dissolve in water), and then glue from above. By doing so, the same shape pattern as the mold remains on the fabric, and the dimensions that the craftsman embroidered along the guidelines. This method is unique to kimono embroidery, a similar type has been used for embroidery of silk fabrics and kimono from ancient times.
When comes to the sewing, each of the design of Sukajan was horizontally waving embroidered by a skilled craftsman on the fabric. The Sukajan was often called back in the era as "Souvenir Jacket" or "Wagon Tiger Dragon Embroidery Jumper".
The embroidery used for Souvenir Jacket requires certain advanced technology. A special sewing machine called "side swing sewing machine" is required for the completion of the task, instead of general automatic sewing machines. By gradually adjusting the speed with the foot pedal and the swing width of the needle with the lever on the right knee, each skillfully craftsman is obliged to move the fabric with embroidery slowly by hand. The influence of each embroidery work depends largely on craftsmen's skills and their senses on width of the embroidery, the needle foot, and the color of the embroidery thread.